Mexico journal: on culture (Xcaret part 2)
What is culture? How do you define it?
My dusty Oxford dictionary defines culture as
[T]he arts and other manifestations of human intellectual achievement regarded collectively.
On the other hand, wikipedia page for it defines it as
Culture (/ˈkʌltʃər/) is an umbrella term which encompasses the social behavior and norms found in humansocieties, as well as the knowledge, beliefs, arts, laws, customs, capabilities, and habits of the individuals in these groups.[1]
The definitions of culture were of particular interest to me because I wanted my trip to Mexico would be about culture. I wanted to experience the arts and crafts and engulf myself into the customs and habits of Mexico [0]. While yes, I went with a “work” agenda, I hoped to … well I don’t really know what I hoped for. In hindsight, I was hoping to be inspired - to be able to see the world in a new light in some shape or form. But what I told myself was that I wanted to immerse myself in a new culture - despite not knowing what culture really is. And halfway through my trip, I felt somewhat frustrated, because I didn’t really feel any of the inspiration or awe I expected. If I saw what I thought was culture, it consisted mainly of a shared goal and art called tourist-scamming.
One of the most interesting part of Mexican "culture", a part of it I cannot really understand, is the way they deal with death. For them Mr. and Mrs. Death are friendly acquaintances. The graveyards are fun and imaginative. This guy apparently died in a car.
This one was a plumber.
And Leon here liked corona.
Tamy and I have talked about it many times. She has given me books to read and history to study, and her dad kindly provided me with a bunch of guidance in terms of explaining the life of your “everyday” modern Maya. And Yucatan is in itself is a fascinating place to have a discussion regarding culture. Remains of some of the most advanced civilisations can be found there (all closed, thanks COVID), yet we know so very little about it, and a lot what we do know doesn’t really make sense. The most absurd thing is, that despite the rich history, the towns I spent time in didn’t exist 50 years ago. This is to say that Yucatan is not a place where what I know and think of the Mexican culture actually started. It is one large tourist scam with ancient ruins peppered around for good measure. Perhaps my mind would be changed if I went to see the northern part of it, but despite historical significance, there is not much to be immersed in. When all is said and done, it’s a jungle, and as of 50 years ago a tourist destination. It can be much more than that of course, but if you’re just being there if feels as if there is nothing.
Catholicism is a main religion of Mexico.
The recreation of temples-converted-to-churches in Xcaret is impressive in both scale and craftsmanship.
Although catholics, Mexican religion is unlike any church I’ve ever seen, blending indigenous culture with catholicism. The saints are a “bigger thing” than god, and Virgin of Guadalupe is a nation’s favourite.
The scale and attention to detail of the temples is breathtaking.
Which is also why I was so endlessly fascinated by Xcaret. Because in the middle of nothingness, they managed to build a place which preserves and celebrates Mexican culture - both the ancient one, with it’s history written in ruins of Yucatan, and the one sculpted around Mexico City through migrations and colonisation. Somehow, they managed to make the culture alive - and that is, in my mind the missing piece of the puzzle. The culture is a live thing - it changes, adapts every single day. Nowadays the traditions of north Mexico are completely overrun by the fact that there is currently a drug-war raging out there, Mexico city is like most big cities a shit-show of epic proportions, and Cancun is a tourist scam. That is reality of the culture today. What I’ve seen in Xcaret is what i hoped for - a culture that once was. It felt good to see some of the best dancers, artisans, and performers outside of their respective regions perform on a large stage that Xcaret provides them. It felt like people were happy to share and celebrate their knowledge, beliefs, arts, crafts and customs. They made me yearn for a moment what it had to feel like to be surrounded by it. In a romantic, cheeesy, and well produced type of way it made me forget I have payed substantial sum of money to see it, and that in many ways that culture doesn’t exist in everyday lives anymore.
“Well good day to you sir as well, how do you do?” I didn’t know horses could do this.
Contrary to the popular belief, women were a big part of the charro culture. They often rode sidesaddle (both legs on one side) which to me seems like magic. Obviously this was done primarily so that they can look pretty in a skirt.
To this day, I’m impressed by the level of control they had whilst riding sidesaddle.
So, do I feel like I missed out on my Mexican adventure?
Yes, for sure. Being in Yucatan and not seeing Chichen Itza and Merida was to an extent heartbreaking. Not being able to visit Oaxaca or CDMX made me feel that the only piece of Mexico I have seen is the one build 50 years ago for tourists. However, seeing what I saw there made me wishing more than ever to be able to see all of these places. Yucatan, and especially the attractions in Xcaret made me want learn and document the beliefs, habits, and heritage of the people I find in Mexico. It made me want to open my eyes to the part of the world I’ve never seen before. In a way, it left me with a similar feeling of inspiration I expected to feel by immersing myself in “culture”. So what my experience lacked in personal growth, it made up in the will and inspiration to come back and experience it.
The final show re-traced history of Mexico and its culture. It even tried to re-enact pre-historic games that we only know from texts, myths, and pictograms.
It showed the stories of different indigenous tribes…
… and their “meeting” with the Spanish.
Final part showcased present-day folklore and dances from all across Mexico. Note that most actors and performers chose to use PPE.
And this was all from my Xcaret reports. Thanks for reading, and tune in for more stories from my Mexican adventure.
[0] and no, not only to drink tequila and have an excuse to sleep and fart at any point in time